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The attraction of a silk dressing robe – at New & Lingwood – Everlasting Type

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As I wrote earlier this yr, I’m normally fairly conservative in the case of robes. They’re very sensible for me, thrown on early within the morning to stand up with one in all my three daughters. 

They’ll nonetheless be luxurious, and fantastically made. I’m good at taking care of good supplies, and may address the occasional stray soggy Corn Flake. However I’m not a person of luxurious leisure, and robes which might be overly fancy or fussy simply don’t match my life. 

Nevertheless, I nonetheless recognise {that a} ornamental silk dressing robe is a good looking factor. Should you like menswear, you’ll respect a woven-silk necktie; additionally, you will love the size and circulate of an incredible overcoat; and a dressing robe such because the silk pictured above is a mix – a maximisation – of these two issues. You’d be a idiot to not be tempted. 

Thankfully, a reader just lately requested what sort of silk dressing robe I might suggest. A traditional navy spot? A quilted-lapel smoking quantity? And this gave me the excuse to think about the choices vicariously. 

Anybody that spends time strolling round Mayfair can have had their eye caught, in some unspecified time in the future, by the New & Lingwood robe retailer on the finish of the Piccadilly Arcade. 

There’s such a riot of brightly colored material: black and gold; pink and inexperienced; through the summer time a procession of sugary linens in pale blue, yellow and pink. The one actual native competitors is from Favourbrook, and even they’ve fairly just a few attire and waistcoats in plain cream or black. 

I wouldn’t be stunned if the show makes everybody that walks previous rethink whether or not they’d put on a silk robe. Or need to think about it. Wish to need it. 

I feel there’s fairly an enormous distinction between among the choices although. 

A black silk robe embroidered with skulls and crossed bones can look a bit of foolish, at the least to me. Are you making an attempt to look harmful and hard? In a silk robe? I do know there’s the Eton connection, however extra than simply Outdated Etonians are shopping for them. 

Equally robes in gold, with quilted facings and tassels. It’s a bit of an excessive amount of, too showy. 

There may be nonetheless a query of style, in different phrases. Simply as there could be in case you have been shopping for patterns and hues for an additional space of your life, like curtains or comfortable furnishings.

Should you’re going to put on a brightly colored dressing robe, my recommendation could be to keep away from different points of ornament. Avoid the quilting and the tassels, focusing merely on colors and patterns that you simply like – as you’ll the silk in a necktie. 

I just like the peacock-patterned silk above, for instance. Though it’s clearly a daring sample, and makes use of robust color, the distinction is quite lower than the inexperienced and gold above, or orange and navy. In comparison with these, the pink and turquoise is sort of delicate. 

I additionally like the truth that the piping is low distinction. Its comfortable gold is just like the cream used within the physique, and each mix with the pink and inexperienced quite properly. 

To me, the bright-white piping on some robes could make them look low cost, notably with darker colors. Which is why the piping on the robe I coated earlier this yr was so tonal. 

The New & Lingwood robes are all finely made, after all.

I notably just like the huge, rounded form of the facings, and the way in which they roll open all the way in which right down to the hem everytime you go away the robe unbelted. Take a look at the stomach on it within the picture under – it’s nearly as huge because the chest itself.

Additionally necessary is a belt that holds its form, and doesn’t collapse when tied. Whether or not achieved by stitching or lining, it makes an enormous distinction to how elegant the robe appears to be like. Nothing makes a dressing robe look outdated and ratty greater than a belt that has turn into principally a shoe string.

Lots of the N&L robes are additionally made within the basement of the principle store on the opposite aspect of the Arcade – one thing I’m unsure many individuals know.

This makes changes pretty straightforward, which is good. It’s simple to do one thing like take off the fold-back cuffs and shorten the sleeves, for instance, earlier than reattaching them. 

Curiously, N&L solely had a medium and an extra-large within the retailer on this sample, and I discovered the latter suited me higher. 

A medium was extra of a ‘true’ match, with the top of the shoulder sitting proper on the purpose of my shoulder bone. However I feel a robe needs to be free –  luxuriously so – and in consequence have fullness within the physique if you cinch it on the waist. The additional massive, pictured right here, did that higher on me. 

Extra energy to people who put on silk robes and luxuriate in them. They’re really fantastic – and now that Vanners has gone, there might be fewer round which might be made within the UK. 

From what I perceive, the tried rescue of Vanners – which had been weaving silk since 1740, and which I coated for PS again in 2009 – has now fallen by, leaving Stephen Walters the one mill doing this weaving at any scale. 

Let’s hope there are sufficient dandies round to maintain manufacturing going there, at the least. 

The silk robe pictured is £1,250. Linen robes are various, beginning at £595. Bespoke robes are additionally potential, from a variety of silks and different supplies.

The pyjamas pictured are brushed cotton from Anderson & Sheppard. I discover gray foil for robust color, in a lot the identical method as a gray flannel swimsuit. The footwear are Sagan Lunes from Baudoin & Lange. 

Images, Alex Natt @adnatt

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