Rome doesn’t have the menswear repute of Milan, Florence or Naples. However there are some uncommon little gems nestled in several components of town.
One of the crucial attention-grabbing is Atelier Bomba. Began by Cristina Bomba in 1980, it has a repute for fantastic knitwear and unstructured tailoring.
Neither the web site nor suggestions we got actually do the place justice, nevertheless – notably on the tailoring.
It’s a small, slim store, simply off the massive Piazza del Popolo. However the entire rear half is a working atelier, with drapey jackets, coats and trousers being made to measure.
The partitions are stacked with a shocking vary of material. A lot of it’s classic, and all of it’s uncommon however tasteful. The instance under is a classic hand-loomed hemp. It nearly had Milad and I ordering based mostly on the material alone.
Cristina was available, however the day-to-day working of Bomba is finished by her son, Michele (pictured high).
Michele is definitely a educated bespoke tailor, and makes his personal fits totally himself.
“I made a deliberate resolution years in the past to not make that a part of the enterprise,” he mentioned. “The one solution to have finished it will be to outsource manufacturing, to grow to be a supervisor, and I didn’t wish to do this.”
Michele didn’t perceive how anyone may make a bespoke garment with out the cutter, and ideally the maker, seeing the shopper. That led to a protracted dialog about practices amongst tailors and shoemakers, which might be not price reproducing right here. However I assume may make an attention-grabbing future publish.
Once we arrived at Bomba a buyer was having a pair of navy linen trousers made. He was sporting them with a black polo shirt and gentle slip-ons, and appeared very a lot the easygoing half.
The trousers appeared properly fitted. Inside, they’d an terrible lot of handwork – not all needed maybe, however most likely half and parcel of the expertise in the event you like every part being made on web site.
The jacket I attempted on (under) had an equally spectacular quantity of handwork, and was properly styled. Although personally, I’d most likely desire a little bit of construction in a traditional DB like this. The lapel peaks had been a bit of unruly with out it.
“Typically we do put a bit of canvas within the jackets, only one layer of linen,” mentioned Michele, “and no shoulder pads. The items can actually be whichever mixture the shopper needs – that’s the plain facet of getting every part made right here.”
The fashion of a few of the jackets was additionally a bit of quirky – the jacket I attempted on had two buttons of various sizes. However once more, Michele emphasised that this was only one fashion, and many shoppers made extra delicate commissions.
There have been pretty craft particulars elsewhere too. The shirt/jacked pictured above had intentionally matched checks on the buttonholes, for instance, which I can’t keep in mind seeing earlier than.
We didn’t have time to strive many items – I hadn’t realised fairly how attention-grabbing the store can be, or how participating Michele and Cristina – however I think a shirt/jacket like this is perhaps extra my fashion. There are additionally lengthy coats, work jackets and robes.
The knitwear was equally pretty, and may need broader attraction too.
Apparently certainly one of Cristina’s early obsessions was a shetland knitwear that was mild sufficient to be worn within the Roman local weather, so she labored with melange yarns to get an analogous combine of colors. You’ll be able to see the vary within the cupboard above. They’re all very mild and really gentle.
The opposite knit they’re recognized for is super-fine merinos. (As in super-fine knitting, not the fibre itself.)
Quite like Umbria Verde, their manufacturing facility in Como makes use of outdated English looms that the founder took aside and remade, so as to get a finer setting. They now work at 45-gauge, which is why the items are so clear (above). Once more, notably suited to Rome.
Bomba, though small, has historical past and connections. The household was good pals with Vittorio Solbiati, and at all times made use of their linens.
“When the corporate was being offered lately, we received a name to return and take what we wished from the inventory room,” says Michele. “That outdated fabric had been a part of the sale, however nobody wished it.
“So we drove up in a van and stuffed it to the highest with probably the most stunning bolts. We nonetheless have plenty of it behind the store – it would take us some time to get by means of it.”
They’ve additionally been pivotal in retaining the character of their road, Through dell’Oca. “After the pandemic, there have been plenty of empty streets right here,” says Michele. “We satisfied some pals, equivalent to Patrizia Fabri subsequent door, to take them. In any other case they might have simply grow to be vacationer locations and sandwich retailers.”
These are Fabri staw hats on the partitions – all made in a bit of atelier outdoors the centre. One other little Roman gem.
I’ll positively be again to see Bomba, hopefully this yr. There was a lot to discover, and Cristina and Michele had been so pretty.
Cristina particularly appeared achingly stylish regardless of the 35-degree warmth, in an white linen tunic, jewelry and sandals. She jogged my memory moderately of the equally trendy Audie Charles at Anderson & Sheppard.
Each are additionally filled with enjoyable. Michele was glad to have his portrait taken, however Cristina mentioned she’d solely achieve this if there might be some knitwear within the shot too.
The primary photograph under is what she gave us. Then she mentioned the knitwear would look higher on the canine, and proceeded to decorate him up.
Michele watched on, arms folded, with a smile.
Bomba is just not low-cost, largely a results of making a lot by hand, on web site. The jacket I used to be sporting price €2800, and a piece coat in linen was €1700. The cashmere knits are €570.
Through dell’Oca 39, Rome
Pictures, Milad Abedi